A Weekend in Barnes with the O.D.H.A. Circle

The Barnes Area Historic Association, or B.A.H.A. put together a splendid weekend for the Old Duck Hunters Circle this past August 24-26. Delicious food accompanied gracious guests, speakers, touring, and exploring of the Eau Claire chain of lakes in lovely Bayfield County, Wisconsin. In addition, we anticipated the unveiling of a new book of MacQuarries work, compiled and assembled by the hard work of Dave Evenson. Here's a recap!

The gear was packed and ready to go well before leaving my humble abode in River Falls. My destination was the Brule River Campground near the Ranger station outside of Brule, Wisconsin. Even though it had rained the previous night, I wanted some time on the river before the B.A.H.A. festivities. Being the next chapter of a MacQuarrie pilgrimage, I thought it fitting to fish the Brule. I'd decided to try my luck at May's Ledges. I wanted to do some Euro nymphing for big browns, or possibly an early steelhead. This section of the lower Brule contains fast moving riffles and plenty of bends and pools. I double-checked my "Brule Box" and even the good Doctor, let me borrow a few of his Steelhead flies for the weekend.

Upon arriving at the access, I donned waders, vest, and all necessary gear. The air smelled of fresh rain, earth, and river. An intoxicating fragrance if ever there was. Making my way through the cedars on a muddy trail, I heard the river long before glimpsing it. May's ledges was blown out! A torrent of chocolate water rushed along the ledges at a rate that would quickly take one straight out into Gitchi Gammi! I decided to try another stretch.

I came along at another access, not far from May's, and had better luck. By luck I mean the water was safer to wade. The turbid and stained depths make angling more difficult. The river was swollen and hadn't crested from the previous evening's downpour. I know the smart thing would have been to throw on a streamer and rip, rip, rip. Even so,I hoped to wrestle out a good brown or two with my euro-nymphing rig. I figured I'd work and perhaps learn a thing or two and see what would come.

The trout were not to be won, but that isn't to say the outing was a route. The scenery along that stretch of lower Brule does make one pause. The river is cut deep within the valley. It is adorned by a beautiful assortment of pine, birch, and aspen. The river opens into a wide expanse, which given different circumstances, would have been a dry fly fisherman's dream. I whiled away several pleasant hours over a half mile stretch before surrendering to the call of the upcoming dinner bell in Barnes.

Barnes is located about twenty-five miles from the campground. It was a pleasant ride giving time to turn one's thoughts to the O.D.H.A. Circle. I pulled into the parking lot at the Town Hall and was greeted by familiar faces from my MacQuarrie Pilgrimage last September. Larry and Ted (of BAHA) were there along with our guide, Dave Evenson. Many other members of the O.D.H.A. circle were in attendance as well.

The tables were set with red checkered tablecloths, and adorned with many vintage duck decoys. A number of display boards were out indicating any number of MacQuarrie facts. Another table displayed vintage outdoor magazines which had the published works of said author. That was a great new experience for me! Each article had a number of photographs accompanying the story. Placing a face with a known name added another layer of enjoyment and connection to the Old Duck Hunters stories.

After introductions and initial program information disseminated, it was time to eat. Dinner was tasty pulled pork sandwiches, with all the accouterments. Desert was warm apple pie with fresh ice cream. Not a bad start to the weekend!

We left the Town Hall and proceeded to the museum. I'd been waiting to see this exhibit for a long time. The folks of B.A.H.A. have truly put together a fantastic exhibit of MacQuarrie artifacts. The ones which really stood out were his typewriter, glasses, pipe, and duck hunting skiff. I assure you, I would not have been tackling rough waters in a craft as such.

The two dozen participants, sharing the weekend, spent time pouring over the collection, questioning the historians, and getting to know each other. We gradually exited the museum to enjoy a pine knot campfire, courtesy of Steve Kleist. The O.D.H.A. Circle officially formed one around the warm flames. Introductions were had, and stories shared with how we became introduced to Mac's works. The evening finished with a side of trivia, and many laughs. I ambled back to the campground to turn in.

The following morning we amassed again at the Town Hall for breakfast. Hard-boiled eggs, yogurt, coffee, mixed fruits, and granola bars got us fueled for our tour of Middle Eau Claire Lake. Ted had commandeered a pair of pontoon boats to take us along various locales on the lake.

Middle Eau Claire is nestled beneath the surrounding hills and is covered with points and little bays. The water is quite clear. It's no wonder it served as a backdrop setting to so many of the Old Duck Hunter tales. Our tour separated into two pontoons. Dave Evenson would lead one, Ted Eastland captaining the other. I must tell you, it was something of a trick to find the proper balance on our pontoon. We took on a touch of water once or twice before getting our sea legs.

We visited several places including Libby Bay, Blunt, Posey, and Car Seat Point. We even went by the hallowed pickle barrell point! Dave shared his expertise and answered questions. Ted too contributed many interesting facts. Ted had done a great deal of leg work contacting local folks. He made contacts and really made our tour accessible to the places MacQuarrie and the O.D.H.A. set out to do the Autumn rites. Our pontoon caravan moved to the Stewart property. It was here we met Bill Stewart.

Bill took us to his father's cabin, and shared many a story of his father, who worked for MacQuarrie for a time. He spoke with reverence of what the lake was like in those days. You could sense Bill's appreciation of being able to share his family history with our tour. I feel the Circle did too.

The construction of this cabin was something of a talking point, as it's blueprint was taken from the CCC days. Many were interested in the upright log construction. Upon entering the cabin, a board was taken from the full log and used within the interior ceiling. It made for a unique and comfortable cabin.

Our tour continued towards the headquarters of the O.D.H.A. It was here we were officially introduced to Gordy Skamser. His family, along with the Tierny family (Doc), made up a trio of cabins which was at the heart of the O.D.H.A. In fact, Gordy is named for our famed author.

Gordy took us up the stone pathway to the boathouse. This unique structure stands out along the lakeshore and is one of the few I've seen in Wisconsin. Gordy shared he's been hard pressed to keep the structure square, and he's done quite a bit of work to keep it shipshape. In fact, the work he and family have done to modernize, yet maintain their vintage cabin was truly stunning. The fieldstone stairs leading to their cabin alone make one take pause.

Gordy graciously took us into his home, which was adorned with a number of MacQuarrie artifacts including one of Mr. President, Al Peck's, old decoys. Gordy's father loved working fieldstone masonry. The cabin has a fieldstone kitchen with a brick oven for woodfire cooking! It was truly remarkable what they've done with the property.

From the Skamser's we walked next door to Doc Tierney's place, and again the work of Ted paid dividends. Ted gained us permission to walk the hallowed grounds of the headquarters of the O.D.H.A., MacQuarries cabin. We walked the property, which contained the original shack the author would walk sixteen miles from the railroad to get too. We walked the perimeter of the cabin, which too reflected the CCC design of Stewart cabin, with upright logs. The woodshed was still there, with a number of pine knots tucked away. We half expected to see Mr. President's old brown Mackinaw. The circle paid their respects and we made our way back for lunch at the Windsor.

Our next stop was an exploration of the thoroughfare written about in the story, "Meet me at the Ice House." We took in the hand-lock connecting Middle Eau Claire Lake to Lower. Ted again struck gold. He had actually found the ice house! Nearly eighty years after the story took place, it was still in pretty good shape... minus the roof! The group looked around for any messages written on shell boxes from Mr. President, but struck out.

Our tour concluded for the day. Many of us collected for a cocktail hour before the evening panel. Dinner was a fine assortment of chicken, pork, and beef served family style. The garlic mashed potatoes, gravy, and veggies were nearly as good as the company! It was a treat getting to know new members of the O.D.H.A. and I look forward to forging new friendships in the years to come.

The evening panel took the O.D.H.A. Circle though the process of how the Old Duck Hunter stories came to be in published form. We were introduced to John Case and Dale Arnez. The debt of gratitude we owe these two can not be expressed properly in a blog. We enjoy the works of Gordon specifically as a result of their unique work. I don't wish to spoil their tale, as I hope you will join the O.D.H.A. in upcoming years. I do hope you'll consider. If you'd like to learn more about upcoming MacQuarrie events, please check out the Barnes Area Historic Association. Larry, Ted, and the team put on a wonderful weekend.